Beauty


From the perfect red lip to the wildest Ziggy Stardust eye, the spring 2018 runways offer inspiration both tried-and-true and experimentally intrepid.

This article originally appeared in the March 2018 issue of ELLE.

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1

Easy Rider

Judging by the parade of long, loose styles at Elie Saab, Bottega Veneta, Oscar de la Renta, and Simone Rocha, overcomplicated hair is over. The aesthetic: soft, high-shine ’70s glamour. To achieve the deep side-parted, effortless effect at Balmain, Sam McKnight targeted strands with a dryer and round, soft-bristled brush. He added waves with a 1.25-inch wand, then combed through with a spritz of hair spray for what he calls “the ultimate healthy look.”

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2

Ultra Marine

From a shaggy cobalt ’do at Gucci to Smurf-y side bangs at Fendi, blue announced itself as the hair hue du jour, while sleek styling and layered cuts gave the rebel shade a sophisticated feel. To duplicate the petrol-inspired teal McKnight dreamed up for Fendi, he suggests cutting neon-green and blue dye with a touch of gray or black (just a few drops in water) to tone down brightness. Perhaps more important than getting the color just so? Swagger.

While the models at Fendi sported tinted hairpieces, temporary L’Oréal Paris Colorista Spray provides a quick fix for anyone eager to test-drive a new shade. Ready to commit? Paramore rocker Hayley Williams’s company GoodDYEYoung offers a spectrum of semipermanent options (shown in Narwhal).

L’Oreal Paris Hair Color Colorista, $9; amazon.com SHOP

GoodDYEYoung Semi-Permanent, $14; gooddyeyoung.com SHOP

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3

Cardinal Rules

The ubiquity of crimson mouths has established red as a new neutral, but backstage ingenuity also deserves some credit. When the perfect red wasn’t available in a single tube, makeup artists mixed and layered unique combinations to flatter every skin tone—from blood-orange tints at Max Marato brilliant vermilion at Blumarine.

To create the Popsicle-stained, ombré pouts at Helmut Lang, Inge Grognard started with a base coat of M.A.C Cosmetics Retro Matte Liquid Lipcolour in Feels So Grand. Applying the darker Retro Matte in Carnivorous to the outer two-thirds of the mouth, and concentrating on keeping the edges sharp, Grognard then blended the two shades where they met to create a gradient effect.

M.A.C Cosmetics Retro Matte Liquid Lipcolour, $21; macys.com SHOP

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4

All Tied Up

At Rochas, Anthony Turner humbled anyone with a topknot habit with his elevated take on a messy bun. The stylist prepped hair with a dusting of L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.Art True Grip powder, then gathered a ponytail at the nape and looped it into an S shape, “like a squashed little bow,” before tying it in the center with ornate strips of embroidered fabric. To finish, he tucked bobby pins underneath for extra security.

To fashion a malleable texture with face-framing wisps, treat hair with a heat protectant (try Kérastase L’Incroyable Blowdry) and smooth with a round boar-bristle brush, like R+Co’s.

L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.Art True Grip powder, $16; us.lookfantastic.com SHOP

Kérastase L’Incroyable Blowdry, $28; walmart.com SHOP

R+Co Round Brush 2, $80; dermstore.com SHOP

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5

Flash Forward

From a singular rhinestone beauty mark at Givenchy to a full-blown sparkly disco handprint across a model’s face at Vivienne Westwood, glitter ran the gamut between coy restraint and enthusiastic abandon. Going minimalist for Jeremy Scott (two words not frequently linked), makeup artist Kabuki affixed three crystals of ascending size (the smallest in the inner corner, the largest at the far lash) in complementary colors to the models’ skin tone. At Philipp Plein, Rapunzel-inspired “good girls” rocked a metallic mint glitter eye shadow, complete with black-winged liner and lashes. And at Jour/Né, Lyne Desnoyers layered M.A.C Cosmetics Mixing Medium Lash on the lid (she suggests substituting lip balm in a pinch) and pressed a blend of teal, silver, emerald, and red paillettes into a squared-edge cat-eye shape. “The key to looking chic and clean is firm brushes, to apply with precision,” Desnoyers says. “And always have good old masking tape on hand to pick up the fallout.”

M.A.C Cosmetics Mixing Medium Lash, $15; maccosmetics.com SHOP

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6

Moonage Daydream

For a vibrant alternative to the typical smoky eye, meet the opaque color-blocked lid. At Marni, Pat McGrath layered navy cream shadow with matching glitter powder from her eponymous collection. For House of Holland, Ciara O’Shea drew lid-sweeping wings with pleasantly greasy sherbet-colored liner pens.

To re-create Romero Jennings’s zigzag of color at Talbot Runhof, dip a brush in bright cyan pigment, like Nars Eye Paint in Solomon Islands, and draw three lines of ascending length
across the lid. Sprinkle with glitter (try M.A.C 3D Silver), then concentrate mascara (we love Maybelline Great Lash) in
the center of the bottom lashes “for a doll-like effect.”

NARS Eye Paint, $26; sephora.com SHOP

M.A.C 3D Silver, $22; maccosmetics.com SHOP

Maybelline Great Lash Washable Mascara, $4; target.com SHOP

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